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I have climbed Spire Point twice, both times solo. The first time was a side trip after climbing Dome Peak from Cub Lake. This was an exciting climb since Spire Point is usually considered to be low fifth class requiring a belay for a couple of moves. I found the climb to be quite exhilarating especially near the top where the finger and toe holds were pretty thin. After getting past this crux the summit was only a few blocks higher. I was apprehensive about getting back down the crux but it didn't end up being a serious problem. All in all, a delightful climb!

The second ascent was during my 1991 Ptarmigan Traverse. On Day 6, after angling down off Dome Peak to hit the Dana Glacier well below Spire Point, I dropped my big pack (the blue monster) and headed back up to do Spire Point. While on Dome I had noted a thunder storm heading my way from the other side of Sulphur Creek but didn't think too much about it. Now I am only one big block away from summiting Spire Point again when I hear a buzzing sound on that top block.

Panic! Spire Point is getting set up to be struck by lightning. Gotta get down fast! And I do. I have memories of actually sliding down parts of the route. Back on the glacier I head down practically on the run to put distance between me and Spire Point as fast as I can. About a hundred yards down the glacier my head is snapped around by a loud explosion! I turn just in time to see a lightning bolt jump from a rocky point on the Dome side of the Dome/Spire Point col to make a hit on the top of Spire Point... it is like a transformer exploding. And I had been right there about 10 minutes earlier. Then the bolt jumps to a nunatak below Spire Point with another explosion of fire and sound and on to another Nunatak before the show is over.

I am practically shaking in my boots as I continue down the glacier. I feel safer holding my ice axe horizontally although glacier ice is a good insulator unless it has wet snow on it. The snow I am making tracks in isn't real wet but it isn't real dry either. Anyway the storm has passed and I have survived... barely.

Details & pictures later.